Isabelle Bousquet Indoor Carpet June 29th, 2018 - 09:40:52
Another installation related issue creating havoc with installations is lack of adhesive being used to hold the carpet to the substrate. If there is one place where corners can be cut its by cutting back on the amount of adhesive used to hold down the carpet. You can double the "savings" if the carpet is a double-gluedown installation. This type of installation is when the carpet is affixed to the underpad and the underpad is affixed to the concrete. There are charts that clearly outline what kind of trowel to use to apply the adhesive on different styles of carpet backings. Unfortunately its rare that installers to abide by this chart. The rule of thumb for a properly affixed carpet is that it would be extremely difficult to peel back a carpet and if you could that there would be legs in the adhesive. Legs in the adhesive means that the where the glue separates from the concrete there are strings of adhesive between the floor and the carpet backing.
The last major issue with corridor carpets that is often seen is when wall to wall carpet is replaced by new carpet tiles. Carpet tiles are installed with a pressure sensitive adhesive. This adhesive must be applied to a clean concrete surface free of all contaminants including adhesive from previous carpet installations. If pressure sensitive adhesive is applied over the old carpet adhesive then it mixes in with it moisture is trapped and as the moisture eventually tries to escape around the edges of the carpet tiles and lift or the new adhesive emulsifies. Again this issue is usually blamed on the manufacturer and the carpet supplier will often try and gluedown the lifting edges using adhesive that they should not be using in attempt to keep the lifting edges down on the concrete.
In case plain water has failed to do the trick dilute a small amount of mild bleach in water together with a small amount of liquid detergent (go for bleach mixtures that can be used on colored fabrics and test in an inconspicuous area such as inside a closet-DO NOT USE BLEACH ON NYLON OR WOOL RUGS). This mixture will help remove the remaining stubborn stains. But if the carpet stain is not entirely removed by the said solution go for a mild chemical stain remover for carpets. You have to choose the milder solution because we all know how sensitive expensive carpet fibers are we want the stain removed but we do not want our carpets damaged.
Then a third bead of seam sealer is supposed to be applied to one edge of the seam to "weld" together the carpet panels. Most carpet installers and retailers are unaware of this requirement. It is no wonder that seams are fuzzing in so many buildings. Unfortunately the blame for fuzzing seams gets placed on the carpet manufacturer the carpet cleaners the vacuum cleaners and the latest one is the new LEED approved carpet adhesive. There is nothing further from the truth. The reason the architects and the carpet manufacturers insist on all cut edges of the carpet be encapsulated with a seam sealer is that they need it. The construction of carpet and the adhesives used to bind the primary and secondary backings has changed for a number of reasons primarily to make carpet a carpet "greener".